By Farzad Ghotaslou – Art in Tanzania Internship Project
Due to its long distance, the Art in Tanzania team visits Katavi rather seldom. We require a minimum of 3 participants to make the long drive to Katavi and back, which helps keep the cost reasonable. However ,Katavi is always worth it as it is still the real wilderness of Africa.
Katavi National Park, located about 35 km southwest of Mpanda, is the third largest national park in Tanzania (added to the two contiguous “game reserves”, the protected area extends over a territory of 12,500 sq km) , as well as one of its most pristine natural areas. Although this is an isolated and less crowded alternative to other such destinations around Tanzania (Serengeti National Park receives more visitors per day than Katavi receives throughout the year), the lodges here are luxurious. as in any other park in the country, and for backpackers it is one of the cheapest and easiest to reach destinations; as long as you have the time and energy to get here.
The park is named after the Wabende spirit, Katabi, who, according to local legend, lives in a tamarind tree near Lake Katavi. Locals looking for blessings from his spirit still leave offerings at the foot of the tree. The area was first protected in 1911 during the German occupation and was later designated as the Rukwa Game Reserve under British rule until 1932. In 1974, an area of just over 2,200 km² was declared a National Park, and the larger area was finally gazetted in 1996. It was officially opened with the name Katavi National Park in 1998.
The main feature of the Katavi territory is its vast (425 sq km) alluvial plain, the Katisunga Plain, whose vast grassy expanses occupy the heart of the park. In the western and central part of the park the plain gives way to large tracts of scrub and forest, and these are the best places to spot tawny antelopes and black antelopes; along with Ruaha National Park, Katavi is one of the few places where you have a good chance of seeing both of these species. Some small rivers and extensive swamps that do not dry up during the dry season provide the ideal habitat for hippos and crocodiles; moreover, the Katavi is home to approximately 400 species of birds.
Wildlife features include large herds of animals, particularly Cape Buffalos, zebras, wildebeest, giraffes, and elephants. Along the Katuma River, crocodiles and hippos are also present, which, during the annual dry seasons, result in mud holes that can be packed with hundreds of hippos. Carnivorous animals that roam this park are cheetahs, wild dogs, hyenas, leopards, and lions. Some sources claim a very high biodiversity in the park, although there are also reports of wildlife decline due to illegal hunting and poaching, presumably for ‘bushmeat’ sustenance. Katavi has fewer human visitors and jeeps conducting game drives than other Tanzanian parks.
It is during the dry season, when the floodwaters retreat, that Katavi truly comes to life. The Katuma, reduced to a shallow, muddy trickle, forms the only source of drinking water for miles around, and the flanking floodplains support game concentrations that defy belief. An estimated 4,000 elephants may converge on the area, accompanied by several herds of 1,000-plus buffalo. Meanwhile, an abundance of giraffes, zebras, impalas, and reedbucks provide easy prey for the numerous lion prides and spotted hyena clans whose territories overlap the floodplains.
Katavi’s most singular wildlife spectacle is provided by its hippos. Towards the end of the dry season, up to 200 individuals might flop together in any riverine pool of sufficient depth. And as more hippos gather in one place, so does male rivalry heat up – bloody territorial fights are an everyday incident, with the vanquished male forced to lurk hapless on the open plains until it gathers sufficient confidence to mount another challenge.
The number of visitors to the park on an annual basis is extremely low, compared to better-known parks, with just above 1,500 foreign visitors out of a total of 900,000 registered in the entire Tanzania National Parks system during 2012/13. A survey of the actual rooms sold by the available ‘Safari’ style accommodations might reveal the number. Still, based on total room count and season length, an upper limit can also be estimated. In addition to a public campsite (located at SO 06’39’19.1 E0 031’08’07.9), as of 2013, there were only three permanent camps permitted to operate at Katavi, namely the Mbali Mbali Katavi Lodge, the Foxes on the Katuma Plain and the Chada on the Chada Plain. These camps each have a visitor capacity limit of approximately one dozen.
For visitors, getting to Katavi will likely be arranged by the hosting camp, with one of the available charter flight services being the Mbali Mbali Shared Charter (operated by Zantas Air Services) or Safari Air Link. All flights will require landing on a dirt airstrip; the Ikuu airstrip (near the Ikuu Rangerpost) has minimal services. It is approximately a three-hour flight from Katavi to Dar es Salaam and a two-hour flight to Mwanza via a small, bush-compatible light aircraft. A flight to Arusha is similarly ~3 hours distant and operates on limited service, usually only twice a week on Mondays and Thursdays.
Access to Katavi via ground transportation: estimates vary widely; it is generally discussed in terms of days rather than hours. The town of Mbeya is 550 km (340 miles) distant and is described as a “…tough but spectacular…” drive. Google Maps indicates that Mbeya is 838 km from Dar es Salaam, making the total distance approximately 1,388 km (870 mi) and requiring 20+ hours. The most direct route to Dar es Salaam, as per Google Maps, is approximately. 1250 km (~800 miles) and requiring 16+ hours. Arusha is similarly distant: 1000+km /13.5 hours. The percentage of transit on unpaved surfaces is unknown, but parts of all of these routes will be on dirt roads. Since all the above times from Google Maps assume an average transit speed of 80 km/h (50 mph), all these indicated travel times should be considered optimistic.
The park no longer offers vehicle rentals, but Marula Expeditions charges between US$150 and US$200 per day, depending on the distance you wish to travel. In contrast, the less flexible Riverside Camp (see Overnight) offers two off-road vehicles with canopies. Retractable at US$250 per day.
Walking safaris (short or long, US$ 10/15 per group) are permitted with the accompaniment of an armed forest ranger. Bush camping is also allowed (US$50 per person plus walking fee) throughout the park, making it an excellent option for budget travellers. However, keep in mind that this is one of the most infested parks with tsetse flies. The road to Lake Katavi, another seasonal floodplain, is an excellent destination for walking. The road starts from the park management offices, so you don’t need a vehicle.
The main activity, of course, is game viewing, which can be done on both game drives and guided walking safaris. The bonus of game drives in Katavi National Park is that you’re unlikely to come across any other humans. Walking safaris are an experience not to be missed, allowing you to get up close to the African bush, its sights, sounds, and aromas.
Fly camping is offered. This is the definition of bush camping, where regular tents (don’t expect luxury!) are set up in the bush at a temporary campsite. No fences, no flush toilets or showers. It’s living in the wild; cooking food over a fire and spending evenings chatting around the campfire, staring up at the breathtaking African night sky and listening to the nocturnal calls of wild animals.
Katavi National Park offers excellent game viewing throughout the year. Still, its peak season is from June to November or December, when animals gather in their thousands around scarce water sources.
During the wet season, the floodplains transform into lakes, offering spectacular bird-watching opportunities.
References
- “Tanzania National parks Corporate Information”. Tanzania Parks. TANAPA. Archived from the original on 20 December 2015. Retrieved 22 December 2015.
- Katavi NPArchived 2008-02-06 at the Wayback Machine information from tanzaniaparks.com
- ^Parks arrivals highlightArchived 2015-12-20 at the Wayback Machine from tanzaniaparks.com
- Campsite info from tanzaniaparks.com
- Katuma Bush Lodge official site
- Foxes of Africa official website
- Chada Camp official website
- Safari Aviation official website
- Highway route on Google Maps
- Wikipedia
